Easter weekend was filled with family and food, in true German style. We were invited to Easter service by Martin’s Uncle and Aunt. We met Olaf & Birgit on our first trip to Jena several years ago, and we became friends when they came to the States for three weeks in 2017. They live in Apoldo, near Jena.
From 1119 until 1633, the town of Apolda was ruled more or less independently by a family of nobles, the Vitzthums. In the 18th century, Apolda developed into a manufacturing and trading town. Fun fact: Over 20,000 bells cast in Apolda’s bell foundries by master bell casters can be found today scattered all over the world.
The Easter service was in the Martinskirche which dates to 1119. Like most of the churches in Apolda, it is much too large for the current population. The Lutheran congregation that worships there today solved the “space” problem by walling off most of the church and using only one end. We arrived early for the service (it WAS Easter Sunday!) and walked around the grounds, marveling at the beautiful stone work, and the old cemetery – members of the town's founding Vitzthums family are buried here. When we went inside, I was startled to find a small, cozy, almost country-style parish church inside.
After a beautiful service which included lots of singing, hymns and a brass om-pa band (the minister both played and preached) we toured the interior. Olaf is a master glass craftsman, and he showed us some of his work in the church where he rebuilt and replaced stained glass, and built a glass floor in front of the alter, to allow a view of the foundations of the pagan church below that predates the 900-year-old church.
We walked from Martinskirche to a nearby restaurant to celebrate one of Martin’s grandmother’s birthday. A traditional lunch of pork, potatoes, and enormous white asparagus was served family style. The afternoon was filled with lively conversation in German, English and the universal language of laughter. Throughout the affair, Grandmother Ula opened her gifts, and distributed Easter favors to her guests. Her favorite gift received was a miniature “choir” made by Martin’s mother and sister out of hollowed-out eggs, dipped, and decorated to resemble the members of Ula’s choir.
On Easter Monday, the extended family met at Olaf and Birgit’s home for another traditional meal of dumplings and lamb.
Our after-meal walk included a tour of Olaf’s glass work shop, followed by a tour of the jewel of Apolda, the Lutherkirche. Martin's father Andreas explained that even at the time it was constructed in 1892, it was too big for the town – it was always intended to be symbolic, a treasure of the people. We were quite fortunate to see it now, as the town has just finished a major restoration and cleaning of the interior of the church, and the guts of the organ had been removed and could be seen in one of the naves in the process of restoration. We climbed and climbed and climbed to the bell tower, and were rewarded with fabulous views of the entire town – and a toll of the bell on the half-hour that almost knocked me over!
The balance of the day was spent in lovely gardens, enjoying cake and coffee in the homes of Martin’s parents and grandparents. The weather continued to be unseasonably warm, and our hosts each shared with us the ingenious methods they were using, and their planned improvements, to capture much-needed water for their gardens. Nothing is wasted in this part of the world.
As all days must, this one too neared its close. The sun dipped low on the horizon, taking with it the sunshine that had warmed us all day. We bid our good-byes: Until next time; Be well; Take good care.
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