We woke to warm and brilliant sunshine. Ah, Vienna. We started our Saturday with a traditional German breakfast at the Hotel Austria, an endless spread of breads, cheeses, meats, yogurts, fruits, cakes and cereals. The smiling dining room hostess was everywhere, bringing us coffee and warm milk, greeting the other guests, chatting away. I am discovering that smiles, nods and a pleasant tone communicate just as effectively as words, especially when the words are not familiar.
There are many ways to explore Vienna. Since our time here was limited, Ron suggested a bike tour. Now there is a surprise!
The real surprise was how much fun we had! We were a group of 18 riders. Our guide, Marco, was amazing. Each stop was designed to touch on a single theme: music, art, history, culture, even politics.
In three hours, the past came to life as we snaked through the city in a hopelessly long two-wheeled-conga line.
In Hero's Square, the public square in front of the Hapsburg Palace, are two equestrian statues. The statue of Archduke Charles commemorates his command of the first army to defeat Napoleon. [fact: three weeks later, Napoleon crushed the Archduke at the Battle of Solferino). The statue itself is impressive - the entire weight, all 13 tons, is supported by the horse's two rear legs - without the help of the tail! Quite an accomplishment in 1860. Quite an accomplishment today. I think I will always notice this detail in all the equestrian statues I encounter from now on!
Marco pointed out the balcony where Hitler delivered the Anschluss on March 15,1938, signifying the annexation of Austria into Nazi Germany. On that day, the square was packed with several hundred thousand cheering Austrians, a historical detail that today's younger generation of Austrians seem prepared to own, no longer accepting the revisionist version of history that Austria was "conquered" by Nazi Germany. No public ceremonies have been held on the balcony since. Even on a bright sunny day, the awareness of the history that occurred in this square had a profound effect on the group.
We stopped near the little apartment where Beethoven spent several reclusive years when he learned he was totally and irreversibly deaf. Although suicidal at times, he composed his greatest works here, in an apartment on the top floor. He also rented the floor below which remained empty, so that he could compose in peace and not be a nuisance to neighbors. I find that ironic, that anyone could find Beethoven's music unwelcome. Ron totally got it, though. He has been listening to me learn to play the piano for the past ten months....
We explored the Hundertwasser Village, an eclectic hodgepodge of buildings conceived by artist and master architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. He wanted to achiever a "more human and nature oriented architecture." In constructing his home in 1990 and 1991, he chose not to tear down and rebuild the former factory, but to instead use existing materials and fabrics. He added trees to the roof, purely for the enjoyment of his neighbors. Visitors came to see what he had achieved, and soon an arcade-style bazar of the same style was designed across the alley. A few decades later, the trees have grown, and 1.2 million visitors a year come to admire, shop, and enjoy a coffee in the courtyard.
We left the inner city, and followed a bike path down to the Danube Canal, where the embankment walls form a single, giant canvas. The area is open to graffiti artists who have turned the concrete into their very own art gallery in Vienna. The idea was the brain child of the Mayor in 1994 to cope with the "graffiti problem" in the historical districts of Vienna by legalizing street art in a designated area along the Canal. Brilliant. And for those of us who are not wired for traditional museums and galleries, the two mile stretch is pure entertainment.
We headed back to the inner city through a beautiful park, where Ron and I would return later in the day to simply breathe in Vienna. I will never tire of this city...
Bike Talk
Kilometers:15
Miles: 9
Number of riders on the tour who had not been on a bike in a very long time and almost got the rest of us killed: 1
Rank of best bike tours ever: Top Ten!!!
Should have said "Europeans."
The city looks beautiful. I envy the Germans their clean environs with so little advertising, unlike US.
Great to know that Beethoven was thoughtful of his neighbors below. Powerful comment re Austria's connection to Nazi Germany. The truth must out for anyone to move forward.
It was a pleasure to meet you both and be a part of your journey! I look forward to following your travels. Thanks for the inspiration as well! 💗