We left the southwest corner of Ireland and turned north, continuing along the Wild Atlantic Way up the coast to Kenmare (pronounced "kin MARE"). Kenmare is a sleepy village that sits between the famed Ring of Kerry, and its smaller cousin to the north, the Dingle peninsula. Kenmare seems almost apologetic in its quaintness, like it didn't mean to be so pretty and tidy and untouched by whatever it is that turns quaint villages into touristy towns.
We arrived late in the afternoon, tired, and hungry. The walk from our B&B into town was exactly what we needed. We found a restaurant in the harbor serving our favorites: fish and chips for Ron (with a mushy pea bonus!) and chowder for me. Ron has vowed to sample fish and chips in every town we visit in Ireland. So far, Dino's in Kinsale is the reigning champ.
On the walk home, we noticed our incredibly beautiful surroundings. How had we missed this?!
Home sweet home, for the night - The Rockcrest B&B. Our room was on the top floor, and the house was so welcoming and comfortable that I didn't care that I hit my head (three times) on the sloped ceiling behind the dormer windows.
We feasted on entirely too much breakfast, then lingered over coffee while we studied the weather. Rain, and lots of it, all day long. We decided to bail on the Ring of Kerry drive, and head to our next stop instead, Dingle, on the Dingle peninsula. But before we left Kenmare, we wanted to see its Stone Circle. There are lots of stone circles in Ireland, especially in the southwest. But we had not stopped at any of them yet, and this wet and windy Sunday morning seemed like the perfect time to spend some time with the ancients.
Words cannot possibly do this place justice. There was an "honesty" box (asking for a 2 euro donation) in the window of an unmanned gatehouse, and a flyer saying simply that "Stone circles were built during the Bronze Age 2000-200 BC and were believed to be built for ritual and ceremonial purposes..."
There was a second box on the window ledge containing a stack of pens and paper cards with strings. The cards were wishing card, inviting visitors to write down a wish, and then tie the card to one of the two "Hawthorn Fairy Trees", on the edge of the Stone Circle. You can see the trees on the left side of the picture above; here is a close-up.
It has been a lovely morning in Ireland: an Irish breakfast; time spent with ancient spirits on land where humans have gathered for thousands of years; and a gentle reminder to throw a prayer up to the universe.
Mind as you go, y'all.
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