Mesa Verde is a tough act to follow. And while we are NOT keeping score, in my humble opinion the Canyons of the Ancients held its own. We were not familiar with this area, but we noticed it on the big map, not far from Cortez, and we had time…
The park[1] is massive, larger in land mass than even Mesa Verde. It covers 177,000 acres of high desert in the southwest corner of Colorado. We drove first to the park office, and picked up a map and trail guide. A kind Park Ranger had taken a pink highlighter and marked out a suggested path. That map marked with pink highlighter saved us – without it we would probably still be wandering in the desert!
There are thousands of archeological sites, some clearly identified, most not. Archeologists agree that humans have been a part of this landscape for 12,000 years.
The park is open for hiking, cattle grazing, mountain biking, horseback riding, oil and gas development, research, hunting, and conservation. Fortunately, not every use is allowed on every acre!
The first stop on the pink line was Lowry Pueblo. The drive took almost an hour, and much was on gravel roads. We were not surprised to be the only visitors.
Lowry Pueblo is beautifully preserved, with standing walls, 40 rooms, and a Great Kiva. It is believed that this style of architecture, that its, permanent communities for the previously nomadic tribes, was the precursor to the cliff dwellings found here and in the surrounding area, including Mesa Verde.
We followed the pink line for miles and miles, sharing the dirt road with “free roaming” cattle, horses, and sheep. We ended up in Utah.
We were hungry. Lunch on the range, with horses behind us, and lava rocks under us. Eventually we looped back into Colorado, and found the Sand Canyon Trailhead. There were maybe six cars, one of them pulling a horse trailer, the driver loading a horse as we arrived.
We studied the trail map, and selected two trails to form what turned out to be a four mile loop. The hike was amazing.
The first trail was through sandy desert, and the desert floor was covered in cacti and dry prickly bushes.
Part of the trail abutted a farm.
“Old” farming equipment was disintegrating in the harsh climate, and I couldn’t help but notice the contrast between the remnants of a modern civilization and another, ancient civilization.
The second trail on our hike was completely different. We climbed up and out of
the sand, and were now walking on, and climbing up, rock. Huge rock worn smooth and flat by the endless wind. There were no trees to hold trail blazes. The trail was marked with short posts held upright by rock-filled wire grates. Every time we thought we must have missed the trail, another marker would appear, and we would keep climbing. The view at the top (first photo in this blog) was worth every step!
After a steep decent, the trail wound back behind the giant rock formation from which the trail head gets its name “Sand Canyon.”
The photo below gives perspective. Can you find Ron? He’s the old handsome guy in the green shirt.
We understand why so few have heard of or experienced the Canyons of the Ancients. It is hard to get to. It is hard to get around in. It is rugged, desolate, and unforgiving. But these are what make it truly special, and we are glad we came.
[1] The Canyons of the Ancients is technically a Monument, managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and not a National Park under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. Hence, the use of lower case “p” park!
Car Talk
105 miles (mostly dirt and gravel roads)
Driving Time: 3 hours, 8 minutes
Average speed 33 mph
Mileage 33.1 mpg
Total Trip Mileage 2,117.5 miles
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