What a difference a day makes! The day dawned bright, sunny, and warm, and the sky was virtually cloudless. We returned to the Grand Canyon early, once more passing through the ponderosa pines of the Coconino and Kaibab National Forests, now covered in a dusting of snow from the day before.
We rented bicycles from Bright Angel Bike Rental located near the Visitor Center on the South Rim. From there, the Greenway Trail led west, parallel and inland from the rim trail.
After about five miles through the ponderosa forest, we came out into the sun along the rim, and followed the rim for five spectacular miles. Cars are not allowed in this area, only park transit buses, bicycles, and hikers.
My favorite views were the glimpses I caught of solitary explorers, and couples wrapped in each other’s arms, just looking out over the abyss. Lost to the world and to themselves. This is an extraordinary place that almost demands contemplation and quiet. We too stopped often, allowing the canyon to bathe us in its mystery and magnificence.
We made it to the end of the road, Hermits Rest. There is a rest and refreshment building here (closed at this time) that blends brilliantly into the walls of the canyon. It was completed in 1914 and designed by architect Mary Jane Colter. Yes, THAT Mary Jane Colter, originator of the architectural style “National Park Rustic”.
Hermits Rest commemorates the home of French-Canadian Louis Boucher who came to the Grand Canyon in the early 1890’s and loved the place so much he decided to take up residence below the rim. He lived here for more than 20 years and was the primary guide during his time.
Miles from the Visitors Center, it is easy to imagine this spot, unchanged throughout time. Even with five million visitors a year, the canyon itself remains largely untouched by human hand or foot.
Our bikes were fitted with sturdy frames, fat tires, and nice tractor-style seats. There were only seven speeds, which seemed like plenty until we were on the way back.
The wonderful steep hills that were such a joy to fly down on our way out west were increasingly challenging to climb as the excitement of the day, the high altitude, and the warm Arizona sun took their tolls.
A few more hours and we were back in the Ponderosa forest, just a few miles from the rental return, when we took a wrong turn! The added mileage was well worth it - we came upon a momma deer and her baby, and they let us sit quietly near them for a long much-needed rest.
The sun was still high as we headed home to Flagstaff. In our two days exploring the Grand Canyon we saw elk, deer, coyotes, cattle, horses, squirrels, birds, and even the almost- extinct California Condor. We notice that we have become accustomed to the ever changing terrain – forests at the Grand Canyon, followed by fifty or so miles of Arizona desert, then suddenly back in the ponderosa national forests that surround Flagstaff. This is our new normal, and today, it fits like a favorite bicycle!
Car Talk
160 miles
Driving time: 3 hours 22 minutes
Average mileage 40.5 mpg
Average speed: 46 mph
Trip total 2,804.1 miles
Bike Talk – Special Edition
Miles: 26.1
Average downhill speed – fast
Average uphill speed – slow
Average speed – average
Toll on body – immeasurable
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